Archive for the ‘Bike Maintenance’ Category

A battle continuously rages between tub and clincher users on most forums these days, although many people use a mixture of both. Clinchers for training and tubs for racing seems to be the usual trend.

Tubs have been the lighter option for many years. On some rims they can provide a more aerodynamic profile, and they can take more pressure than a standard tyre and tube. There’s also less chance of having a ‘blow out’, so puncturing is less of an potential issue.

Many people think that a standard tube tyre is fairly similar in weight to a clincher tyre and tube, which is essentially true. But that’s forgetting the weight-loss in the rim as tubs don’t need the excess material that a clincher rim needs to grip the tyre which therefore makes them a lot lighter.

The main problem with a tub is that you can’t really fix it mid-race, so you have to take a spare, which is a bulky object to carry compare to a skinny inner tube. Then there’s the whole nightmare of changing a tub, which can be a daunting task in itself.

In the end it’s personal choice, depending on your experience and the event. Whatever you decide just make sure that you know how to fix any problems that may come about.

Happy Training!!

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Train all you like, but if you have a problem with your bike in the first race of your season then it’s going to put a serious dent in your time. All bikes pick up wear and tear, especially if you ride the roads during the winter months. Follow this simple guide to DIY bike maintenance and you shouldn’t have any problems come race time.

Tyres
Keep an eye on both tyres, checking for wear on the tread as well as cracks on the sidewalls that might indicate they have started to perish. Replace damaged tyres immediately as worm tyres lead to slower performance and punctures.

Crank Bearings
The pedals and chain are attached to the crank arms. You have two, a left and right one and they are attached to the frame via the bottom bracket. Put the cranks at three and nine o’clock and then try to move them from side to side (across the frame). If they move and they don’t, it’s time for a new bottom bracket.

Wheel Bearings
If a wheel still wobbles after you’ve checked it for dents and broken spokes, the wheel bearings may have gone. They hold the weight of the bike so they need replacing immediately.

Headset
Make sure this isn’t loose by facing your bike with the front wheel between your knees, then apply the front brake and rock the bike from side to side. To tighten it loosen the top cap and stem bolts with an allen key, turn the top cap half a turn at time and now do the stem bolts up again when you’ve finished each turn.

Brakes
If the knurled nut adjuster where the brake cable enters the brake is on maximum, the brake pads are probably dead. Also check to make sure the brake cable’s outer isn’t damaged or the cable itself is fraying. Brake pads are very easy to change with your own toolkit. Changing the brake cable is also relatively easy. Simply cut the crimped-on cable end of the brake, pull it back through the outer casing. Measure some new cable against the old length and insert through the outer and retention pin. Tighten up the knurled nut and add the cable protector to the end of the cable with pliers.

Wheels
If the wheel is dented or you have a broken spoke, it may wobble and your brakes could lock up. Run your hands around the spokes like your playing a harp. They should give off the same note because all the spokes should be under the same tension. To tighten the spokes you can attempt this yourself with spoke key, however it does take a fair bit of practice to get the tension right on all the spokes so the wheel spins true. Your local bike store can do this with a special machine which only costs a couple of pounds.

Chain
My post here should explain everything you need to know about checking your chain.

If you feel unsure about the state of any of the components mentioned above, you could always let your local bike store give it the once over and you could go for a swim!

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Look after your bike and it will look after you! This time in ‘bike maintenance’ we’ll take a look at checking and replacing your chain.

The cassette teeth on your bike should be even but as time goes on they will wear on one side, becoming hooked and pointy. This means the chain won’t run smoothly over the teeth and you may find that you start jumping sprockets. To check you chain, try lifting it from the chain ring at the point nearest the front wheel (see picture). If you can lift in more than 4mm, you should replace it.

Replace the cassette at the same time you replace the chain, as they wear together. It’s important to get the correct chain length by wrapping the chain around the big ring on the front and the big ring on the back (but not through the derailleurs) and then add two links to this. You need a chain tool to do this and various multi-tools have one. There are two different types of chain; Sram, which are easier to replace because they have special links called ‘power links’ which make it easier to assemble/diassemble the chain. Shimano chains require that you use specific chain linking pins and are more fiddly.

If you do get stuck trying to replace your chain, your local bike shop should be able to put you right within seconds, however I’ve been able to replace mine and if I can, I’m sure anyone can!

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With the nasty weather on its way here’s a handy ‘cassette and chain’ cleaning guide, which will keep your bike it top condition throughout the entire winter.

Cleaning a tri bike is relatively easy. Use warm soapy water and a sponge to gently remove any road grime. For a gunked up chain, use biodegradeable chain degreaser.

You don’t need a snazzy chain cleaner, just use an old toothbrush to apply the degreaser to the cassette while you spin the pedals in order to spread it along the chain.

Leave for a few minutes, then you can wash it off, but not with a pressure washer. A sponge or stiff brush and water will be far better for your bike.

Apply water repellent to the chain (keep it away from the rims or where your brakes will touch) and wait 15 minutes for it to dry.

Now you can apply fresh chain lube and you’re done.

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